On the Road Again: Preparing for a Mega Trip

Mar 10th, 2010 by Kristin

Much of my planning for my month in Africa will likely be left for the 11th hour (i.e. next Wednesday), as I have a self-imposed daily 3,500-word count I must write for my Tennessee book, on top of tending to my queries from Frommer’s and mundane production stuff (i.e. the dreaded maps!) and working on all the other magazine stories that I have due in the next month. I don’t want to be a total workaholic stress case while I’m trekking about Africa for four weeks, after all, so I’m trying to knock out the majority of my work in advance. Besides, Lord knows, I have plenty of time to sleep during my three(!) days in transit. That said, I still feel like there’s stuff I need to do, such as:

-Kit out my camera. In traveling in third-world countries, it’s always best to not look like a rich tourist. Sure, my foreignness is going to be blindingly obvious, but if I’m going to tote around a fancy camera, it will benefit me to look janky, meaning lots of layers of Gaffa tape. Hey, who do you think the thief is going to go for: little ol’ me and my equipment with all its wear and tear or the guy beside me with his pricey Mark II so obviously expensive dangling from his neck?

-Stock up on mosquito-fighting agents. SVV and I doused ourselves in 100% DEET while in Central America and still got gnawed to pieces by skeeters, sand flies, fleas and the likes. My nurse told me that 30 to 40% DEET is really all I need, but that it would benefit me to spray all my clothes in clothing repellent, which lasts three or more wears, as well.

-Uh, pack. Now, I consider myself an expert packer by now, but I fear I’m not going to be able to abide by my normal carry-on-only philosophy, as I will be gone exactly one month and necessary electronics alone will occupy half my bag. Thus, I’m going to take my laptop bag and a medium-sized checked bag. I’ve been collecting things in a pile for a month when I think about needing them, but so far the random odds and ends that I’d likely forget in the end are collected in one spot. Also, after my good pal May got her CHECKED BAG broken into on her recent flight via a Mexican carrier, I’m going to be extra cautious from now on. Even though, my electronics will remain on me always, when flying an airline that has a bad rap or I’m unsure of, I will be locking my bag, wrapping it in plastic (many airports offer this option) and documenting it on camera prior to each flight. Travel writer friends have had similar experiences on South African Airways, and as Mom and I are flying them domestically, we will be taking necessary precautions.

-Print out every last hotel and flight confirmation, forward it all on to SVV and another friend just in case, as well as keep separate copies in my carry-on and checked bag, and pay all my bills in advance. ‘Nuff said.

-Shop. I’ve gotten better about not using every last trip for one massive Target run—if that were the case, I’d be broke as a joke, yo—but there are some things I need such as a functioning converter (recs on one that actually lasts?), aforementioned skeeter deterrents and healthy snacks for all that time spent in transit so I don’t use a growling stomach as an excuse for a diet consisting of chocolate purchased at duty free.

-Purchase our wedding bands. Unrelated to travel, yes, but still! Wedding clock’s a ticking. When I return, I have all of 38 days remaining until I get hitched! (Save your “you’re crazy!” comments for another day, please.)

On the flip side, here’s what I have done already:

-Vaccinations. It may surprise you to know, but with all the traveling I’ve done, I’ve rarely been required to get any sort of vacs or take any drugs. Thus, in order to go to Rwanda, I had to be a human pincushion for a few days. On top of seasonal flu and H1N1 shots, I was required to get updated tetanus and polio, Hep A, typhoid and yellow fever. I’m not going to sugar coat it, the last two made my arm hurt like a bitch for several days, but all in all, the experience was pretty easy breezy. I had called a travel clinic that quoted me something short of highway robbery like $1,000, so in the end, I went to San Francisco’s Adult Immunization & Travel Clinic at the public health department headquarters. Given that this is located in homeless central, I was a little bit worried about the quality of care, but in the end, was very pleased with my experience. The nurse could not have been nicer—she even laid me down to administer all my shots, as she took one look at my pallid face (I am squeamish to a fault) while she was talking about the procedure and feared I might pass out—as well as very informative. For example, I opted against the rabies vac ($600 and three painful pricks? no thanks!), so she gave me the blow-by-blow on what to do should I get bitten or scratched (hightail it to Nairobi for proper treatment, it seems). In all, two visits and two aching arms later, I was set to go.

-Picked up my scrips. I did a lot of research before settling on doxycycline as my anti-malarials. I have heard so many horror stories about malarone and mefloquine that I wanted to avoid those at all costs. At the same time I was going through all of this, my running buddy Autumn was crashing at our house for five nights prior to her India trip. She was on one of the aforementioned drugs and acting all funny and having some mad hallucinations. The only downside of doxy is sun sensitivity (I’m good about wearing sunscreen every day as it is) and that you have to take it daily and for 28 days upon your return. Still, I’m all for inconvenience over going mental.

Despite taking meds, there’s still a very good chance I could contract malaria anyway—three blog readers wrote me saying they caught it when on the anti-malarials—but one American non-profit worker in the Sudan, Alie, told me what to do should this happen. “In Africa, malaria’s like the common cold. My advice is at first sign of muscle ache, head throbs, fever, chills, or nausea that you go ahead and take the treatment meds,” she said. “They don’t hurt to take even if you don’t have malaria. Many travelers attribute these symptoms to jet lag so they leave it for a few days. But, if possible, you want to avoid making a visit to a local clinic—THAT is no walk in the park. Take any terrible health care experience you’ve had a multiply it by 100 in Africa. So just take the meds at any sign of sickness.”

-Called my credit card company. I cannot tell you how many times Citicards has put a hold on my card for “suspicious activity” in one country or another. This is all well and good with as much identify theft going on, but when you’re stuck in a third-world country and you’re only card has been denied? Not fun. In fact, in booking our flights, rental car, etc., Citicards put a hold on my mom’s card three times, even though she called them each time and told them she was going abroad. Still, before every trip now, I phone my credit card company and give them my away dates and projected countries. Better to cover all bases in advance.

Also, were you aware you can use the Costco pharmacy even if you’re not a member? Neither was I. Just another nugget my kind nurse shared with me before she called in my prescriptions. I have horrible health care via a BCBS independent policy that never covers any prescriptions, and I picked up two months worth of anti-malarials, as well as a box of Cipro (Montezuma can quickly ruin a trip…better to start off prepared!), and my total came to a whopping…$16.23. Amazing.

What am I forgetting? Also, the final leg of our trip, the Garden Route in South Africa, still needs planning. Advice there? We have five days to drive it, and I am overwhelmed with all the information out there on the Internet. I would much prefer your help and advice!

Posted in Adventure Travel, Africa, The Travel Bug, Workin' Hard for the Money

26 Responses to “On the Road Again: Preparing for a Mega Trip”

on 10 Mar 2010 at 7:37 pm1Angie

Best of luck! Your blog is great, and I am really looking forward to all the stories and photos from your trip.
on 10 Mar 2010 at 8:08 pm2greyfavorite

Love this. Practical for you; vicarious fun for us.

I’d add a copy of your passport to that list of itinerary confirmations you’re forwarding to SVV and pal. Also, do you have any allergies/medical history doctors would need should the unthinkable happen? If so, throw a copy of that list in, too.

Have fun! Be safe! Good luck!
on 10 Mar 2010 at 8:58 pm3Haidang N

SO EXCITED FOR YOU!: ) GREAT TIPS, INFO, AND LINKS. Don’t forget to have FUN ;P I know you will
on 10 Mar 2010 at 9:08 pm4Andi

Girl, you should have asked me about the anti-malarials. I have these incredible Chinese herbs that cost next to nothing and they have kept me safe when every one else around me was getting sick. Plus, NO SIDE EFFECTS!!!

Anyway, have the best time. I promise you will fall so head over heels in love with SA. Can’t wait to see pics and read the stories. XOXO
on 10 Mar 2010 at 10:21 pm5Gretchen

Have a great time!

With regards to the doxycycline, I’m on that now for a non-malaria related reason and I wanted to warn you to always take the pill with food and to sit up for at least a half hour after taking it. I have had once instance of the med burning the lining of my esophagus when I took it on an empty stomach and immediately went to sleep. It didn’t quite make it to my stomach before dissolving and is strong enough to burn. My throat healed, thankfully, but it was painful for about a week and it made it doubly painful to continue taking the pills.
on 11 Mar 2010 at 12:51 am6Teej

Don’t forget your yellow fever vaccine *certificate*. It would really suck to forget that.
If you can find it — I’ve found it only once — pick up a tube of Odomos. It looks like toothpaste, but it’s a mosquito repellent from India and it works wonderfully. And it smells pretty nice (comparatively speaking).
Cover up. When I’m out on warm evenings, I don’t worry too much about staying cool. I put on long sleeves. When we travel away from home, I usually toss a mosquito net in my bag just in case we need one and don’t have it or the one where we travel has holes.
If you feel sick after getting back to the States, get to a doctor immediately and *demand* they test you for malaria. Doctors in the U.S. don’t have much experience with malaria and often misdiagnose. (Down here, on the other hand, you can buy and carry at-home tests anytime.)
Be aware of the potential, uh, conflict between doxycycline and the Pill.
Yes, definitely shrink wrap your luggage.
You said you’re going to call your credit card company; I usually call them twice. The second time, I ask them to confirm what countries are on the list. They always seem to screw this up for me, and it’s an unbelievable pain, like you said. (Sometimes two calls don’t even work for me. I don’t know if they have more sensitive security alerts for African countries or what. Sigh.)
Your friend is right: Local clinics in smaller villages are awful. Even in Maputo, the Central Hospital is a complete nightmare. But I’m sure your tour organizer in Rwanda will have those bases covered for you. And Joburg and Cape Town have excellent medical facilities.
In SA as you drive the Garden Route, carry plenty of Rands. We’ve visited several gas stations along main highways where they didn’t take credit cards.
Now for the fun advice: M recommends the Asara winery in Stellenbosch. Eat the Malva pudding when in SA–my god, it’s delicious. Take a billion photos and enjoy being a part of this different world. Can’t wait to hear about it!
on 11 Mar 2010 at 2:20 am7Teej

OH — and carry toilet paper when you venture outside the cities!
on 11 Mar 2010 at 3:02 am8Brandy

Sounds crazy and hectic, but exciting! Have fun in Africa! And yeah, I can’t go to Target ever, whether right before a trip or not, without spending a bunch of money.
on 11 Mar 2010 at 5:16 am9Haidang N

QUOTE: It also never fails that each time I check out of a hotel, I do the twice over to make sure I haven’t left anything and spot a lone hotel-branded pen sitting on the executive desk across the room. Should I take it? Leave it there for the next guest? I pause. Then I do a quick lunge-and-grab maneuver (similar to Elle Wood’s bend-and-snap routine) and conceal it in my bag quicker than you can say “Kristin’s swiping pens again, Mom!”

Catching up on some old posts. AMAZING quote because i nodded my head while reading and my jaw opened bc i do this too! hah….my dad beats you on the shampoo and soap though, a bit embarrassing at times IMHO. he doesnt even spare the toilet paper even ;o
on 11 Mar 2010 at 5:56 am10Vicki

Wow, it sounds like you’re almost ready to go! Good luck with all the packing and admin stuff!
Just a couple of things, to second Teej definitely take your yellow fever vaccination certificate with you. I forgot mine when I went to Ghana and was lucky, the customs let me in with a photocopy but a lot of my colleagues have been stopped and asked for it on the way in/out of Africa and in some countries, mostly Central Africa they can refuse you entry into the country if you don’t have it .
I took mossie repellent with me and used it endlessly, and I also discovered you can get soap and shampoo with mossie repellent in too which sounds like a great idea cos I alwas get bitten on my hairline. I think you can probably find them in your local health food shop, that’s where I saw them over here in France!
I know you’ve chosen doxycycline for your anti malaria meds now but just for future reference, I took Malarone for 2 weeks and had absolutely no side effects/problems whatsoever with it. I took it with food at the same time every day and was fine, so it’s not as bad as the horror stories make it out to be! Oh and I discovered you can be harboring malaria in your body for up to a year after your trip, so if at any time in the 12 months after you get back you experience any of the common symptoms make sure you tell your doctor about your trip!
Have a fabulous time, safe travels and take lots of photos for us!! :0)
on 11 Mar 2010 at 7:54 am11PD

I do love reading your blog…but ‘third-world’…really? I think the right term would be ‘developing world’ or a ‘developing country’. I don’t think one can use the term ‘third world’ without offending someone.
on 11 Mar 2010 at 9:04 am12Angella

So (envious, and) excited for you. Africa is on my life list…
on 11 Mar 2010 at 9:18 am13jen laceda

Hey Kristin, I used to work in a Travel Medicine Clinic as a receptionist / intake coordinator (that’s how my health care career started! LOL!). Wo! I’m glad you are avoiding mefloquine and malarone. Doxy is way better even if you have to take it before AND after. I’ve heard many bad side effects with mefloquine, especially if mixed with alcohol – haha. It may trigger a first-episode of (dormant) psychosis – hahaha! Take it from me. I also worked in the Forensic Department of The Centre for Addiction and Mental Health! Hahaha.

Also, there is an oral vaccine (drank) that is not available in the U.S. It’s called Dukoral for Cholera…that’s basically what it’s for – Cholera. But one of its effects is it calms stomach illness. So, this is just for your information, just in case Cipro runs out and Cholera is prevalent in the area you’re going to (which hopefully, is not).

One more thing to pack: acidophilus or probiotic tablets. It’s good to replenish lost flora IF taking antibiotics or if having severe diarrhea. Just a general good idea for your health maintenance anyway.

And like Teej said, don’t forget your vaccine certificates, esp. when going to SA and coming from area affected with yellow fever.

Oh, and those pesky credit card companies!! They never get it right. We reported that we were going to Morocco last year, and STILL they put a hold on the card!! When we called to complain, they said, ok, no problem, we will lift the hold. Guess what? It was never done. Either someone screwed up once again or there is a conspiracy going on with these credit card companies. It’s so frustrating. Altogether, we had to call a total of almost 10x before and during the trip to let them know our travel route. Another frustrating thing: we said we were going to Marrakech, Morocco, and when we decided on an impromptu side trip to Essaouira, the card was “held” again. We called to ask why…the operator answered, “oh, we didn’t know Essaouira was in Morocco!” YiKES! Good luck to you!!
on 11 Mar 2010 at 9:36 am14Locusts and Wild Honey

Holy cow! This is a goldmine of information. Your travel preparations amaze me.

I hope your trip is amazing!
on 11 Mar 2010 at 10:57 am15kat

oh MAN i should have read this BEFORE i went to japan. i mean a japan isn’t the same as africa but i sure got a surprise when i tried to withdraw money and my bank was like nah-uh! this is such a good tip.

good luck packing, writing (did you find your tennessee notebook???!!) and have an amazing trip!
on 11 Mar 2010 at 11:16 am16Abby

Have fun, Kristin!! You’ll get it all done — not worried about you. But MAN, you need some sleep! I guess it’s a long flight… Have a safe trip!
on 11 Mar 2010 at 11:36 am17kim

My husband’s family has a beach condo along the garden route in Mossel Bay. We were supposed to visit the Knysna forest, but didn’t get around to it. He says it’s beautiful, so I think we’ll make sure to stop by on our next visit.
on 11 Mar 2010 at 1:30 pm18Kerri Anne

I was giggling to myself over the camera tape, but then thinking: “You know, that’s SO smart.” I never would have even thought about it! (Then again, I’ve been traveling with my trust point and shoot that’s been dropped so many times it looks as ragged (or: experienced!) as a camera can look.)

Have so much FUN.
on 11 Mar 2010 at 3:39 pm19Tracy

if you ever need help with the maps, I do freelance cartography and would love to sneak some into a few travel books. There’s a link to my portfolio/website on my blog. And I really enjoy your site. I’m traveling vicariously through you between my own vacations.
on 11 Mar 2010 at 4:09 pm20Patrice

My friend, who is much more outdoorsy than I am, swears by these pants from REI to keep bugs from biting her.
ExOfficio Ziwa Insect Shield Convertible Pants – Women’s (not sure how tall you are, but they come in petite too). There might be other clothes like this too.
http://www.rei.com/product/795462
on 11 Mar 2010 at 5:07 pm21Sarah Jackson

Have you tried Tripit yet? I used it on my last trip to keep all of my confirmation numbers, itineraries, flight numbers in one place. Kinda loved it.

http://www.tripit.com/
on 12 Mar 2010 at 8:18 am22Julia

Garden Route? Highest bungee jump in the world (well…it was…is that not the case anymore?) for sure. There’s an elephant sanctuary where you can feed/play with elephants and that’s just awesome. Also – near Buffalo Bay, there’s a Rastafarian community called Judah Square that’s a must see.
on 14 Mar 2010 at 9:05 am23Erin

The Garden Route is amazing and though you have to have a plan because things get booked, it’s so much better to just drive, stop wherever looks interesting and stay longer if need be. The hostels along the route often rival really good budget hotels around the world and have an amazing community feeling. On the other side it is really tempting to stay in four or five star places for relatively cheap because of the exchange rate. The must-sees: Franschhoek (town in the wine region of Western Cape) is amazing and has 2 of the top 10 (I think) restaurants in the world; Monkeyland Primate Sanctuary (do not miss!!); Wilderness (town outside of Cape Town, amazing hostel with sea views); Tsitsikamma zip line and Storms River; but really just drive everywhere and as close to the ocean as possible! Oh, Cape Point is really pretty and though it’s touristy and possible false, you may as well go to the meeting place of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans at Cape Alguhas.
on 15 Mar 2010 at 4:47 pm24MonsteRawr

I think what amazes me most (besides your mad photography skills) is the level of your organization is epic. No way I would be able to pack for that huge of a trip without forgetting at *least* 15 things. (Not to mention the fact that I generally pack a full-size suitcase for a week!) I can’t wait to hear about this trip!
on 15 Mar 2010 at 8:47 pm25Michelle

Your trip sounds amazing and makes me very jealous! I’ve had to trips to Africa (and wishing I could fit in a 3rd at Easter as a friend in Cape Town just had her 1st baby on the weekend!!)

A couple of quick Garden Route tips…
Elephant park near Knysa – and Knysa itself is quite a nice town, you can do a tour of Featherbed nature reserve. I really liked Oudtshoorn- the hostel there is brilliant. Its over the mountains from the ocean so different climate, ostrichs (and I rode one at an ostrich farm!) and the Cango Caves. Also its a predominately Afrikaans community so gives you a slightly different perspective.

Have a brilliant time! Can’t wait to read all about it
on 17 Mar 2010 at 3:17 am26Saartjie

Garden route tips from a local:

1. For a truly STUNNING drive, plot the following towns: CT – Gordons Bay – Betty’s Bay – Kleinmond – Hermanus – Stanford – Aghulas (southern most tip of africa) – Bredasdorp – Swellendam – Ashton – Montagu – Route 62 (fabulous inland road) – Calitzdorp (port tasting: yum) – Oudtshoorn – Knysna. The drive should take you 2/3 days (at a leisurely pace – you could do it in one if you rush, but what’s the point?) and you can research where you want to stop off and stay along the way. It’s a bit more unusual to drive inland instead of straight up the N2, but it is by far my fav way to do the Garden Route… and you get a better idea of the Western Cape, I think.

2. While on the Garden Route, I’d stay at Knysna (because it’s pretty and central) and take day trips to explore the area. While there, try go to: Storms River (incl the mouth – beauty); Fynboshoek for cheese lunch (hidden fabulous spot: you need to book otherwise he’ll just make his cheese instead of serving it to you with fresh farm bread and salad from the garden… and you’ll never find it without directions); Nature’s Valley; Sedgefield farmers market (if you’re there on a Saturday morning); Ille de Pain (for breakfast/brunch in Knysna); Noetzie (castles on the beach); fabulous “farm stall” called The Heath about 10km outside of Plett (on the knysna side); and all the other obvious stuff that tickles your fancy (there’s loads, but it’s probably all in the tourist books).

3. Then, drive down the N2. It’s pretty until about George, but then I think it gets a bit a bit dreary (esp in comparison to what you’ve already seen… and in some places you will marvel at how those apartheid-era town planners managed to make such a beautiful place so darn ugly). Then high-tail it back to CT (perhaps stopping for a spot of bungy jumping on the way?).

Feel free to drop me a mail if you want any other ideas. I’m pretty good at this kind of thing… (!)

Oh! And I wouldn’t worry too much about self-treating malaria once you get to SA: most parts of SA have excellent doctors and clinics and it shouldn’t be too expensive for a consultation and basic treatment. But you’re right to be aware of flu-like symptoms and be sure to tell whoever you see that you have been in a malaria area.

Have a fabulousa time in this breath-taking continent: it will make your heart beat faster and stronger. Africa does that.