I’ve had a lot of California-centric Photo Fridays lately but that’s because a) uh, I live here (duh) and b) even after two years, I still kind of can’t believe that this is my home. I mean, really, hardly a day goes by when I’m driving along the coast or passing a new city site that I previously hadn’t noticed and don’t think, “wow, California truly is a page out of a fairy tale—and it’s my fairly tale, too.”

Two summers ago, SVV and I ventured an hour up into Marin to a sprawling farm called Devil’s Gulch for the premier foodie event in, well, all of the States really. Roosters crowed out to one another across the barnyard, as if to alert one another that company approaches. A hefty pig the size of a small horse snorted out in fear that he might be the next young thing to decorate the dinner table (he wouldn’t be wrong in that assumption). Glasses clinked in merriment on the other side of the 75 acres Devil’s Gulch Ranch comprises, as the sun sank below Samuel P. Taylor State Park in the distance, leaving pink streaks across the sky. It really was the perfect setting for dining alfresco.

We were there for an ongoing series of dinners called Outstanding in the Field, covering it for both Newsweek and the Travel Channel; I doubt there’s a one of you out there who lives in the US and hasn’t heard of this company, as it’s been written about ad nauseam in every newspaper and magazine across the states in its decade in existence. All the food and wine is local to that particular dinner and organic, often taken directly from the site, as was our case at the ranch. Sometimes you even get to see your food in the flesh—or at least its brother—before it winds up on your plate.

The first OITF dinner was held in 1999 with 60 of founder Jim Denevan’s friends and acquaintances gathered around the table. Now, for at least six months out of the year, Denevan and a handful of employees travel the country by van and organize alfresco meals for the public, accommodating as many as 140 diners—in fields, ranches, dairies, vineyards, community gardens, whatever they may find that jives with their beliefs. Renowned chefs from New York, Chicago and San Francisco, among other cities known for culinary excellence, fly in to prepare the meals. Participants are given the opportunity to see where their food is coming from, interact with the farmer and explore the area where they’re eating. In one season alone, Denevan’s posse will put together more than 40 meals in the United States from California to Maine, and even venture as far as France, Spain and Italy. Last I spoke with Denevan, he said he was angling for a Greenland feast, but I don’t know if that ever came together. You also have to be waiting at the computer the day the season’s schedule goes up each spring (this year, that would be March 20), as dinners sell out immediately. It’s not unlike French Laundry, really.

Things don’t always run smoothly, though, which I suppose is understandable when you’re dealing with Mother Nature: SVV’s sister and her husband, for example, went to a dinner in Paso Robles the week after ours at a time when the county was experiencing an unseasonable 111-degree heat wave. Thus, the OITF crew pushed back the dinner. “Because the time was changed, there was not enough lighting,” she told me. “After the first course, we couldn’t see what we were eating. Since the dinner was pushed back because of the heat wave, it didn’t end until almost midnight. By that time, the two measly candles on our table had burned out. If there had been three times as many candles, the lighting probably would have been adequate.”

Also, those who attend a dinner must have open minds as far as food goes. It’s not as if you have an entire menu from which to order; you’re pretty limited to what the chef feels like cooking up and what ingredients he/she has access to. I lucked out and got to eat the fare of San Francisco celebrity Traci des Jardins (of Jardiniere fame), so you better believe that did not disappoint. Overall, it was a great experience. To this day, however, I’m still a bit skeptical about the pricetag—most dinners wind up being $200 or more a head (and yes, even though we were covering the event, we paid for our meals, too, out of our own pockets…magazines these days don’t exactly have deep pocket books)—especially as you could get the same meal in the city for $50 or so. Not to mention the crew who charges so much is a bunch of nomadic hippies from Santa Cruz, so the exorbitant cost almost goes against the principle of the whole organization, if you ask me. However, if someone else were wanting to pay my way, you better believe I wouldn’t turn down that opportunity.
*All photos taken by my beau, SVV, with a Canon XSi and 17-85mm lens.
**For more Photo Friday fun, visit Delicious Baby.